Here we sit, that time of year when most ice anglers are scratching their heads wondering why the fish aren't biting anymore.  Well, to be honest, I am left scratching my head this time of year also wondering what is the best way to put some fish on the ice.  Yes, there are lakes that have excellent bites going right now, but, for the most part it is that time of year. Typical Mid-February in Minnesota, about 3 feet of ice another foot of snow which equals tough fishing.  You know that time of year when people start thinking they have had enough of this cold and snow and are taking a vacation to a warmer destination.  Well, here we are!

So, what do we do to up our odds at putting some fish on ice?  First, you can forget those lakes that had great day bites going on early in the year.  When lakes first ice up, the dissolved oxygen levels are much higher than they are right now and fish are active throughout the day.  At this time of year I prefer to stick to the peak periods at first light and last light.  The bite may still be tough but I prefer to fish when they want to bite versus when they don't.  Fish have to move to feed and when oxygen levels get low, they keep their movement to a minimum and only move when they need to feed.

I don't want to get to into dissolved oxygen levels that much but next to forage levels in lakes they effect the bite the most.  Essentially when Oxygen levels get low fish go into survival mode and restrict their movement to things that they need to survive, which, for a fish, is basically breath and eat.  The good part about having low oxygen levels for the angler is that in general it concentrates the fish in the part of lake with the highest Dissolved Oxygen levels.  Usually this is the deepest part of the lake or near a water inlet.  When Oxygen levels get extremely low however, fish are usually found over deep water near at the top of the water column, just under the ice.  Occasionally these fish will bite but for the most part are just trying to survive and often times hard to catch.

If you want to up your odds at catching fish this time of year see the following list:

• Fish Deep Water
• Target Lakes that are River Fed
• Fish the Peak Times the Day
• Slow Down your Presentation
• Fish Deep Lakes
• Try Open Water Fishing While on Vacation

There is no doubt the bite gets tough this time of year.  There isn't anyone that would tell you different as it happens every year.  The list above should help you choose the lakes you fish this time of year and may help put some more fish on the ice.  The other option is to pack up your ice house and head up to the International Eelpout Festival in Walker MN this weekend.  Usually the Eelpout are willing to bite any time of year and even if you don't wet a line you can have a great time spending the weekend on the ice.

People the read my blog and keep up with the new material know I love to fish for big Bluegill.  And, based on all the email and questions I get, apparently other peole enjoy fishing bull gills also.  Last week I had the opportunity to hit one of my favorite lakes in Northern Minnesota for Giant Bluegill and once again it did not disappoint.  So, what lake were you fishing you ask.  Well, that is not important, I have talked plenty about this lake.  What is important is the way I go about targeting trophy bluegill this time of year.

Since we are basically in the middle of winter, you know that point where the average temps are suppose to rise each day but never seem to do so.  That point where the ice is over 20 inches thick and you can just about drive anywhere as long as the snow allows.  That point where the local anglers in most spots are complaining about the bite and how tough it is.   Yes, we all know what I am talking about.  So, what do you do?

First, you have to realize that the fish have been under the ice for almost two months now and oxygen levels are getting low in most lakes.  Low oxygen leads to inactive fish in most lakes and a void of fish in many of the shallow water hot spots that are popular early ice.  It is time to change your old ways and use technology to put some fish on the ice.  They are still there and willing to bite with a few modifications to your program.

When I say technology, I mean get out your GPS and LakeMaster mapping chip and find a new spot that incorporates deep water near a shallow feeding shelf.  On a LakeMaster map it will look like steep contours near a point or shallow flat.  However, for the most part you can forget about the shallow feeding flat and concentrate on the deep water.  With low oxygen levels fish spend very little time feeding in shallow water.  In fact, unless you fish just at first light or at dark, the shallow water in most lakes may be void of fish right now.

Those fish that you are accustomed to catching shallow are roaming the deep basin near that feeding shelf.  You need to get out your auger and drill out that deep water using your flasher to look for fish.  If you don't find fish, drop a bait down each hole and see if you can get them to show up.  I generally give each hole less than a minute while looking for these fish.  For the most part, they will be relating to the bottom 10 feet of the water column but may not be on the bottom.  The higher off the bottom you find them, the more likely they are to bite. 

Once you locate these basin fish you should have an excellent bite between 8-11AM and 1-4 PM.  As I mentioned earlier, before 8 AM and after 4 PM you may want to look back in that shallow water because despite low oxygen levels the fish will still use shallow water to feed.  However, locating the fish is only half the battle.  These basin fish don't stay in one spot very long, sot is not uncommon to continue to have to move from hole to hole to stay after them  If you chose to stay in one place it becomes a waiting game as the schools of roaming fish move around but they do generally come back.  If you want to up your odds, you have to keep after them!

It is that time of year to get out and look for those deep water fish.  By doing so you may be rewarded with some of the biggest bluegill in the system.  I was fortunate to connect with this 10.5 inch giant bluegill last week while targeting these basin giants.  We did catch about 30 bluegill on the day with most averaging 9 inches.  This one was the only bluegill that broke the 10 inch mark and being big and fat like it was, I would estimate about 1.4 pounds.  It is interesting to note that last year I got a 10.25 inch bluegill in the same spot and it weighed 1 pound 3 ounces.  So, keep after those big bulls, they are out there and are still willing to bite when you find them!

Once again there seems to be a great interest in Tip-Up fishing Northern Pike.  For me pike fishing is about as fun as it gets.  Don't get me wrong, walleye, perch, bluegill, crappie, they all have a place in my heart and I enjoy fishing them all.  But, a good trip Tip-up fishing pike is hard to beat.  However, as anyone that pike fishes knows that if the pike aren't going or you don't have the right bait down there, it can be awfully boring also.  Watching tip-ups all day the don't "tip-up" at all is,well, like watching paint dry.

My first tip is usually the same, fish good lakes. Some lakes have a huge populations of small fish.  These lakes are usually good for action even in poor conditions but rarely yield fish of any size.  Basically it becomes a race to the food and usually the little fish  win which results in good action, but lots of little fish. However, some lakes have good populations of pike with a good size distribution.  These lakes would be considered "balanced" and are your best bet at some good numbers and size.  These are the lakes that I like to target.  Perfect examples of lakes that are "balanced" here in Minnesota are Red Lake and Lake of the Woods.  Both lakes offer excellent pike fishing.

My second tip to making your pike trips more successful is plan them at a good time.  So, what is a good time?  In Minnesota the best pike trips are usually the last week or two of the ice fishing season for pike.  Most years this is toward the end of April.  For those border waters and other states that have a year around pike season, the later the better.  The reason timing is so important is because as it gets later in the ice season, the female pike start to feed aggressively as they prepare to spawn.  You can usually see the increase in activity in mid February and the shallow water bite gets better as it gets later in March.

My third tip is to use good equipment.  We have all made the mistake of watching a tip-up for hours that did not go up only to find that the line is tangled or wrapped and the bait is gone.  If your equipment is not working property or is all froze up, getting bites does you no good, as you won't even get a flag to trigger, been there, done that!  Use good tip-ups that are set correctly so they work every time.  Make sure when you set the tip-up that the line can free spool easily and the flag goes up when the line is pulled. I can't stress enough how important this is.

My forth tip is to use the right bait for the job.  Use good bait that targets what you are after.  If you are after big pike, use big bait.  If are after numbers, use smaller live bait.  I prefer a combination of live and dead-bait on my set-ups.  I use the Frabill Bait Station to keep my large chubs alive, as they can be very hard to keep alive and active.  I use freshly frozen dead-bait also, preferable dead smelt.  By using a combination of live and dead bait I know I have down there something that they will eat on most days.

My last tip is pick your trips carefully.  I like to watch the weather for favorable conditions for pike fishing.  I prefer sun during my midwinter trips and fairly stable conditions.  I know you can not control the weather but you are more likely to get pike to bite if you use the weather to your advantage.  There are some days that pike after pike will come through and will not bite and there isn't much you can do.  So, try to pick nice stable weather when they are more likely to be biting.  In addition, don't overlook the hours between 10AM and 2PM.  Quite often the best pike fishing happens between these hours.  I can honestly say, they are my best hours when targeting pike.

I have a lot more to add to this piece but we will save that for part two.  I have several pike trips coming up and I hope to put what I write to action very soon.  Time to get packed as I have a trip to Lake of the Woods coming up in a day.

There has been a lot of talk lately about how pressure and weather effect fishing.  Specifically immediately after cold front conditions when high pressure has moved in and you are battling some fish that are unwilling to cooperate under these conditions.  Below is actually a piece I wrote last year on basically the same subject and since we just went through a few weeks of these conditions, I thought I would bring this one back.

Before we get ahead of ourselves we need to step back and talk a little about pressure.  As humans we are relegated to looking at a barometer to determine pressure changes.  Ok, yes I know, everyone has an uncle or grandfather that can tell when the pressure is falling because their left knee starts to hurt.  But, if you don't, you need to look at a barometer. Fish and most animals are much different, as they thrive in an environment where pressure, in combination with temp, time of year and daylight often drive their daily habits.

There is no disputing that changes in pressure effect fishing.  However, how and to what degree is something that can be debated forever.  For the sake of this piece we will deal with the scenario Joe asked about, cold front conditions with high pressure.  Anyone who has ever ice fished can related to these conditions, as we tend to see them a lot in the upper Midwest.  In fact, the previouos two weeks were a prefect example of these conditions.  So, what do I do to get fish to bite under these conditions?

First, to be successful in tough conditions, choose a lake that is known to have a good bite going this year.   Poor fishing conditions are not the time to be out sampling new spots or lakes you are unfamiliar with.  Pick a proven lake and a proven spot and you will up your odds significantly.  You know, one of those lakes that seems to be a good lake for ice fishing year after year.

Second, fish when the fish are biting.  I know this changes from day to day but for the most part, fish are more aggressive in the morning and evening so plan your trips around the time they "should" be biting.  They may not be biting, but your up your odds significantly by fishing when the should be biting.

Use good equipment!  Anyone that reads this blog knows I run Humminbird Flashers on the ice.  At a minimum, a flasher is a must under tough conditions.  When fish are not biting, it certainly helps to know they are down there.  Using your flasher, you can see how the fish are reacting to your bait.  Can you get that fish to chase your bait?  Will that fish come up more than 3ft off the bottom?  What is their reaction when you jig aggressively?  What do they do when you stop jigging?  A flasher will help you determine the mood of the fish which is key to putting together the pieces of the puzzle.

Now lets add a camera to the equation if you have one.  If you have an underwater camera, this is a perfect time to drop the camera and see how the fish are reacting.  If you can get fish to bite on camera, you will do very well,  no matter what the conditions are.  Since the conditions are so cold outside, slowing down some and sitting on top of your fish and trying to pluck a few of those tough biters with a camera is a great way to beat the pressure.  A camera will give you that visual so you can actually see the fish approach your bait.  You can watch them move forward or backward, depending on what you do.  This information provides a couple more crucial pieces to the puzzle.

You have now deployed all your technology and still think the bite is tough.  This is where you have to start thinking about the situation.  You noticed the fish will chase some, but will not bite.  Time to change up your presentation.  As a rule, under these conditions I would go small.  Small bait, small jigs, small minnows or whatever I am using, under tough conditions it is going to be small.  The next rule of course is slow.  Instead of fast or aggressive jigging action, you have to slow it down.  Sometimes little to no movement is the key and sometimes it is just a slow steady take away that will get them to commit.   When I say slow, I mean slow.  But, use the technology you have to determine the best approach.  Ninety percent of the time the slow takeaway is deadly under tough conditions.  Just pull it away from them at a very slow and steady speed and they usually can't resist.

Yes, these times can be frustrating but that doesn't mean that the fish won't bite.  By doing even a few of the things mentioned above you will put more fish on the ice in tough conditions.  Remember, if you let the conditions beat you, they will!  You can get fish to go under the worst conditions because they are always biting somewhere!  This is something I have to remind myself a lot when things get tough.

When Crappies go negative it is time to get aggressive, well kind of.  I know this is the opposite of what most would think, but if you give it a try you just may find midwinter crappie fishing a little better.  There are various factors that make crappies go into a negative mode throughout the season and even throughout the day for that matter.  For today I won't get into what makes fish turn negative but rather what you can do to put a few more on the ice.

For many, a crappie minnow under a slip bobber is the gold standard for crappie fishing.  In fact, it may be all you know of crappie fishing and it is very effective at times throughout the year.  Growing up, this was how we fished crappies and were very successful.  My approach to fishing crappies has changed significantly over the years with the advances in technology and lure choices available for just about every application. Where years ago my choice was either a plain hook or a Demon Glow jig, I have now added a lot more to my arsenal and it makes getting those negative crappies possible.

When crappies go negative my first choice in bait is a #6 Demon Jigging spoon.  It is very hard to beat the #6 Demon Jigging spoon in Glow with the Red Spot.  For years this was my go to demon jig, but now that you can get it in a jigging spoon, all the better.  I tip this with two Berkley PowerBoat Microwigglers and off I go probing the depths, hole to hole looking for crappies.  The great thing about crappies when they are in a negative mood, they don't move much so when you find them, you got them.

Once I find crappies I slowly work them with my jigging spoon tipped with the Microwigglers.  The key to this is to NOT jig the jigging spoon.  After all, these fish are negative and not interested in feeding, but they will chase, it is their nature.  They will follow that jigging spoon up, and up and up.  The key is to get them to chase to the point that they have to either eat or head back down to the school.  With most negative crappies if you can get them to chase up over 2 feet you got them.

Again, the jigging spoon is considered an aggressive approach to ice fishing, but it does not have to be fished that way.  Use your electronics to read the fish.  If you get a crappie following and they stop chasing, you did something they did not like.  Go back down to just above the school and try to get one to chase and start the process all over again.  I promise if you work those negative crappies just like I mentioned above you WILL put more fish on the ice this winter.

I just got a question from Brent who was looking for my advice on the best pair of mitts available for ice fishing.  The kind that keep you warm all day and don't get all wet.  Once again, I have to thank a reader for asking an important question about something that I often overlook or take for granted.

This year I am wearing the Snosuit Gauntlet Mitts and Gloves and they are unbelievable.  Think of the quality and warmth associated with Snosuit and put them into a Glove and mitten.  Not only are they great for ice fishing, snowmobiling and ATV use but I wear them plowing snow and shoveling.  They are very durable gloves/mitts and they are super warm.

Once again Snosuit has put out a top-of-the-line product that benefits us all.  If you are in the market for a good pair of gloves or mitts, it is worth checking them out.  Those cold hands I used to get drilling holes or snowmobiliing miles to my spots are gone.  I don't actually wear them fishing because I rarely wear anything on my hands while fishing but they sure make those cold jobs much easier.  Thanks again to Brent for the question.

You can read more about the product if you follow this link  http://www.frabill.com/store/snosuit-gloves.html

This is going to be very short and to the point.  If you own anything that has a 12V/Cigarette Lighter on it, get yourself one or three of these and put them in it. For years I have been carrying one of these in my ice vehicles and you can not imagine how often I end up using it.  This is an trip saver and everyone should have one.

Just about everything we use on the ice runs off battery.  I know everyone has a story about getting to their hot spot and they have a dead battery their flasher, camera, etc.  I know I have countless stories and it can be frustrating.  I have the luxury of carrying back-up equipment and back-up batteries but I still end up needing this unit a half dozen times a year.  As simple as I can put it, get one of these-it will save your day!  Below is a link to the product and the specs:

 http://store.humminbird.com:80/products/322950/AD_ICE1

When people think of products that help them excel or give you a competitive advantage on the water they often think of things like Graphs, GPS units or other high tech items.  Personally, however, I would put a good pair of sunglasses right up there with any other items.  My choice in eye wear is Costa Del Mar and for those of you who have not seen the Costa difference, it is time to check it out.

After using Costa's on the water for the last 8 years I have come to the conclusion that there is a HUGE advantage that previously I was taking for granted.  Because I wear Costa's every day on the water, I take it for granted that everyone can see deep into the water and have no glare from the sun or shadows on the water.  When it comes to tournament time I often encourage my co-anglers to use a pair of my Costa Del Mar sunglasses for the day.  Some chose to wear their own brand but most are anxious to try out a great pair of shades.  The reason I always offer is because I believe as a team, my co-angler and I are working together for the day and I want him or her to enjoy all the advantages I do and hopefully we can succeed together.  Costa's give you a huge advantage by allowing you to see fish movement under water which makes netting and fighting a fish much easier and thus resulting in less lost fish and frustration.

I know most reading this are saying all polarized sunglasses are the same and will work.  This I can promise is NOT true, as I have tried many brands.  I pride myself on using the best products out there to succeed on the water and this in no different.  However, this is one of those products you have to see with your own eyes to believe.  On my last fishing trip the sun was so strong that my kids and wife had all 3 pair of glasses on that I had in the boat and I was left without any.  This was one of those moments that made me realize how much I have come to rely on the benefits of my Costa's.  You know the old saying, you don't know how much you miss them until they are gone.....well, it is true!

I am fortunate to have Costa Del Mar as a site sponsor here on the Blog and I encourage everyone out there to check out a pair of Costa's.  I have yet to have a person try a pair and not see the difference I am talking about.  And, not only do they work unbelievably well on the water, I personally think they look good!

While I continue to prepare for my FLW Tour Leech Lake Tournament it is hard not to take some time out to take in the great fishing associated with the crappie spawn.  This time of year the large crappies are staging to spawn and for the most part, very willing to bite when you find them.

The last few days the kids and I have been fishing crappies in the hardstem bulrushes for fish that are actually in spawning and then the first shoreline breaks in 6-8 feet of water for those fish that are staging to spawn.  Typically you will find the biggest crappie in the system in the shallower water in the prime spawning areas.  This process can take several weeks and with the water temps continuing to hold around 60 degrees the bites should remain good for some time yet.

For the fish in shallow hardstem bulrushes we are using a simple crappie minnow under a bobber.  It doesn't get much easier than that.  We are fishing 2 ft down in 4 ft of water focusing on the dark bottom areas in the bulrush patches.  With these cold temps, the bulrushes are not growing yet and there is very little weed cover established.

For the deeper fish staging to spawn we have been using a different technique this year.  These fish are about 3 ft down over 6-8ft of water and seem to move along the breakline just outside the prime spawning area.  To stay after these fish I have been using the larger 1/16th ounce Black Flu Flu tipped with a wax worm or small crappie minnow.  Instead  of a bobber we have been using the Off Shore Tackle Mini Planer Boards http://www.offshoretackle.com/OR34.html and moving along with the trolling motor at about .5-.7 MPH.  This combination has been deadly for picking up these suspended fish and works really well fishing crappies in all the wind we have been getting lately.  You don't have to run the boards out very far away from the boat.  I am moving along with the Minn Kota and running the mini-boards about 15 ft to the side.  The large crappies just crush this combination and it is an absolute blast catching these fish.

With the speed and weight we are using you want to let out about 5ft of line and then clip on the board, that will have you fishing about 3.5 ft down where the fish seem to be willing to bite.  With a MPH wind every day you have to be creative at the way to go after these fish and I think this method will really help those looking for a nice meal of crappie or that trophy of a lifetime.

It has been a busy week for me getting prepared to leave for Red Wing.  From getting the boat ready, rods rigged and netting bait.  I am very particular about my live bait so I choose to net my own.  That way I know what I am getting for size of minnows and I know that they are fresh.  After 3 nights of scooping bait I now have my willow cats and other assorted minnows for the tournament.  Luckily I used a couple rainy days last week to get the boat ready so I am ready to hit the road Friday.  But, before I get into the Red Wing Tournament I wanted to take a little more time to talk about trolling.

Apparently I spurred some interest in trolling because I continue to get emails about the specific trolling set-ups I use as far a line, rod length, etc.  So, before I head down to Red Wing I thought I would do a little piece on the specifics of the rods, reels and line I use for open water trolling. Again, these set-ups are fairly simple but there are a few specifics you will want to make sure are included when choosing a rod and reel.

When choosing a trolling rod you want to make sure the rod has enough backbone to handle the weight of the planer board.  The rod should be strong at the base but should have a fairly soft tip.  Most people make the mistake of buying rods that are way to stiff for most trolling applications.  The soft tip allows the rod to absorb the pull of the board and is also a great indicator of a bite.  When a fish hooks up the rod will load up and stay back.  If your trolling rod is to stiff, you will not be able to see this.  As for length of trolling rods, I prefer to have telescoping rods in both 8.6 ft and 9 ft.  Having telescoping rods allows for easier storage in most boats.   I run the longer 9ft rods out farther and use the shorter 8.6ft rods for my inside boards.

When choosing a trolling reel you obviously want it to be a line-counter.  The brand really does not matter as long as the reel has a couple important features.  First, the reel should have a good drag system that is easily adjustable while fighting a fish.  Second, the line-counter should have a clicker system.  By this I mean a button that allows you free spool line out with a "clicker" activated.  This puts tension on the line and lets you know your line is still going out.  The clicker system also can be set so that if there is any additional pull on the board a little line will go out and the clicker will go off, kind of a bite indicator if you will.  Lastly, the reel needs to be big enough to hold the right amount of line for the type of trolling you are doing.  If you plan to pull Lead Core line you will need a much larger reel than if you are spooling up with Fireline.  It is important you spool your line-counter so that it is full of line, so pick one that fits the type of trolling you will be doing best.

That brings me to the line.  I mainly use 3 different types of line for trolling.  First I have some set-ups with Berkley Crystal Fireline.  I prefer 14/6 for trolling rivers or in stained water.  Fireline has virtually no stretch and allows you to read your rod tip very easily and is very strong.  The second type of line I use is Berkley Vanish Fluorocarbon.  I prefer 12 or 14 pound test.  Fluorocarbon works well in very clean lakes and has a lot less stretch than monofilament and is much more abrasion resistant so you don't get wear spots from your planer boards.  The last line I use is Lead Core line.  Lead Core is exactly what the name says, line with a lead core.  Lead core allows you to get small baits down very deep.  No matter what type of trolling I am doing, I will be using one or several of these 3 types of line.

Hopefully that clears up some of the questions people had in regards to trolling set-ups.  This equipment does not have to be expensive and will make your trolling experience much more enjoyable.  After all, when you do catch that fish of a lifetime trolling, you want to be able to duplicate the exact pattern that just caught that fish so you can get back down there and get another one.  Good luck and don't be afraid to email me if I forgot anything or you want something else covered on trolling.  Time to rig the last few rods for my Red Wing Tournament.